Why Clothing Matters: Identity in a Fractured Nation
By Warsame Digital Media (WDM) @ismailwarsame
Somalia’s 30-year identity crisis is not abstract. It is etched in the daily choices of its people. Are we Arab, African, or something else? This question haunts a nation fragmented by war, displacement, and competing foreign agendas. Arab aid groups, African Union peacekeepers, and Western NGOs have all left cultural imprints, leaving Somalis to navigate a maze of borrowed practices. The khamis and Gulf-style thobes gained traction not because they reflect Somali values, but because they became markers of piety, economic status, or a desperate search for belonging.
But clothing is more than fabric—it is a language. Traditional Somali garments spoke to the environment (lightweight linens for the heat), resilience (layers for nomadic life), and artistry (bold dyes from indigo and henna). The macawiis could be adjusted for labor or prayer; the guntiino’s drape celebrated the female form without confinement. These were innovations born of Somalia’s unique geography and social fabric. To discard them is to erase a legacy of ingenuity.
The Cost of Cultural Amnesia
The rise of the khamis mirrors a broader erosion of Somali identity. Generations born after 1991 have grown up with no memory of a unified nation. The diaspora, while economically vital, often conflates “tradition” with hybridized practices absorbed abroad. Meanwhile, schools, media, and public institutions—critical tools for cultural transmission—remain weak or underfunded. The result? A youth culture adrift, borrowing aesthetics from Arab pop stars, Western hip-hop, or African regional trends, with little connection to their own heritage.
This cultural drift has consequences. When a people lose their sartorial identity, they risk losing their stories. The guntiino is not just a dress—it is a testament to Somali women’s role in weaving social bonds. The koofiyad is not just a hat—it represents artisanal skills passed down through centuries. Without these symbols, Somalia’s post-war reconstruction risks becoming a hollow mimicry of foreign models.
Weaving a Renaissance: How Somalia Can Reclaim Its Heritage
Cultural revival is not about rejecting the world, but anchoring Somalia in its own story.
Here’s how to begin:
• Revive Pre-War Fashion
Support local artisans weaving benaadir cloth, a traditional Somali textile. Invest in documentaries and oral histories to preserve elders’ knowledge of dyes, embroidery, and garment-making. Fashion schools in Mogadishu and Hargeisa could blend traditional techniques with modern design, creating clothing that is both authentically Somali and globally appealing.
• Celebrate Somali Icons
Public figures—politicians, poets, influencers—should champion traditional attire. Imagine a president wearing a macawiis at an international summit, or a musician pairing a koofiyad with contemporary streetwear. Visibility matters.
• Educate the Next Generation
Integrate cultural heritage into school curricula. Teach children the history of Somali textiles, the symbolism of colors, and the artistry behind the dirac. Cultural pride starts with knowledge.
• Challenge the Arab/African Binary
Somalia is neither “Arab” nor generically “African”—it is a unique fusion shaped by the Indian Ocean trade, Islamic scholarship, and nomadic traditions. Its clothing should reflect this distinct identity, resisting labels imposed by outsiders.
A Stitch in Time
The khamis need not disappear from Somali life. Garments, like cultures, evolve. But its dominance should not come at the cost of erasing what is truly Somali. As the nation rebuilds, Somalis face a choice: Will they allow their identity to be defined by borrowed symbols, or will they stitch together a new future from the threads of their own past?
The answer lies in the hands of designers, elders, educators, and everyday Somalis. Let them wear the macawiis with pride, tie the shash with intention, and remember: A nation’s soul is woven not just in its flag, but in the fabric its people choose to wear.
Cultural reclamation is not nostalgia—it is resistance. To dress Somali is to declare that a people’s story cannot be unraveled, even by 30 years of war.
END
Subscribe to WDM on Substack: https://substack.com/sign-in?redirect=%2Faccount%3Futm_source%3Dsubstack%26utm_medium%3Demail&for_pub=ismailwarsame&email=&with_password=&change_user=false&justTrying=
COMMENTS